The short answer: winter coats tangle more because they spend more time damp, more time rubbing against jumpers, harnesses and sofa cushions, and (let's be honest) less time being brushed, because nobody wants to groom a soggy dog in the dark at 5pm. The fix is regular brushing right down to the skin, drying properly after wet walks, and dealing with small tangles before they become a full felted situation.
If your dog has started feeling a bit lumpy behind the ears, or the armpits have gone suspiciously crunchy, you're in good company. Matting season arrives at roughly the same time as the first knitted jumper, and the two are not unrelated.
What actually is a mat?
A mat is a clump of hair (loose, shed and still-attached, all tangled together) that has tightened into a dense knot. It starts as a small, innocent-looking tangle. Leave it, add a bit of moisture and some friction, and it gradually works its way down towards the skin, collecting more hair as it goes. Very bad mats can become a solid sheet, which groomers politely call "pelting" and dogs presumably call "this coat no longer fits".
It isn't just cosmetic. As mats grow they pull on the skin, which is uncomfortable every time your dog moves, lies down or gets a cuddle. They also trap moisture, dirt and debris against the skin, which can lead to irritation, and they can hide skin problems underneath (PetMD).
Why does my dog get matted in winter?
1. The coat is wet more often
British winter is essentially a long, drizzly rinse cycle. Damp hair tangles far more easily than dry hair, and a coat that's towelled roughly and left to air-dry on the sofa is a coat that's quietly knotting itself. Rain, puddles, wet grass and the obligatory leap into a stream all count.
2. Jumpers, coats and harnesses
We're not about to tell you to take your dog's cable-knit off. It's adorable and we'd never. But anything that rubs creates friction, and friction is how mats start. The usual suspects are under the harness straps, around the collar, the armpits and the chest where the front legs meet the body (AKC). A dog who wears a coat all day and never has it taken off for a brush is a matting project in progress.
3. Coat changes and shedding
Many double-coated dogs grow in a thicker undercoat for the colder months, and the loose, shed hair gets caught in the outer coat rather than falling out cleanly. Trapped undercoat is prime mat material. We go into this more in why is my dog shedding so much right now?
4. Longer coats and fewer grooms
Plenty of owners let the coat grow a bit longer over winter for warmth, and push the groomer appointment back because it's cold and Christmas is expensive. Entirely understandable. It does mean more hair to tangle and longer between proper brush-outs.
5. The central heating effect
Dry, centrally heated air can leave the coat drier and more prone to static and tangling. Add a dog who has perfected the art of lying pressed against a radiator, rotating occasionally like a rotisserie chicken, and you've got friction too.
Where to check for mats
Mats love hidden, high-friction spots. Give these a feel once or twice a week:
- Behind and under the ears
- Armpits and the inside of the front legs
- Under the collar and harness straps
- The chest and belly
- Between the toes and around the paw pads
- The back of the thighs ("the trousers") and around the tail
If you run your fingers through and hit a firm lump, or the brush glides over the top while the coat underneath feels dense, that's your cue.
How to prevent matting in winter
Brush to the skin, not just the top
Skimming a brush over the surface makes the coat look lovely and does almost nothing for the tangles underneath. Work in small sections, lift the hair with one hand and brush the layer below, then check with a comb. If the comb slides through to the skin, you're done. If it snags, you've found something. For longer or curlier coats, little and often (a few minutes most days) beats a heroic hour once a fortnight.
Dry them properly after wet walks
Blot and squeeze with a towel rather than rubbing in circles, which roughs up the coat and encourages knots. Get into the armpits and the trousers, then let them finish drying somewhere warm. Once dry, a quick brush stops tangles setting.
Take the jumper off now and then
Dog clothes are for walks and chilly evenings, not a permanent outfit. Take coats and harnesses off when you're home, check underneath, and give those friction spots a quick brush.
Brush before the bath, never after
Water tightens mats, so bathing a tangled dog tends to make things worse. Brush out tangles before bathing where you can, and dry the coat thoroughly afterwards (PetMD). There's no need to bathe more often in winter, either; our guide on how often to wash your dog breaks it down by coat type.
Use a detangling spray
A light leave-in conditioning spray adds a bit of slip, so the brush moves through rather than dragging. It makes the whole thing more comfortable for your dog and noticeably less of a wrestling match for you.
How to deal with a mat that's already there
Small tangles can usually be sorted at home with patience:
- Hold the base of the mat between your fingers, close to the skin, so you're not pulling on your dog.
- Work from the outside edge inwards, teasing the tangle apart with your fingers, a wide-tooth comb or a mat-splitting tool, a little at a time (AKC).
- Don't do it all at once. A few minutes, lots of treats, then stop. Coming back to it over a couple of days is kinder than one long tug-of-war.
Please don't reach for the scissors. Mats often sit tight against the skin, and one sudden wriggle is all it takes to cut your dog. Leave the cutting and clipping to a professional groomer.
When to call in a groomer or vet
Book the groomer if a mat is large, tight to the skin, won't loosen with gentle brushing, or is near the eyes, ears or bottom. See your vet if the skin underneath looks red, raw, moist or smelly, or if your dog is clearly sore or snappy when you touch the area (PetMD). A clean shave-down is nothing to be embarrassed about. The coat grows back; the dog will be considerably happier.
Making brushing something your dog doesn't flee from
If your dog vanishes the moment the brush appears, keep sessions short, start with the spots they enjoy, and reward generously. Handling paws and ears outside of grooming time helps too. Our puppy grooming and handling guide works just as well for grown dogs who never quite got the memo.
A little help with the tangles
If you fancy something to make winter brushing easier, our Lady Lucia's Prebiotic Leave-In Coat Spray detangles and conditions, so the brush glides rather than drags. Mist it lightly over the coat, work it through, then brush in sections. It's hypoallergenic, suitable for puppies from 6 weeks, and leaves a soft Cashmere Powder scent, which is a considerable improvement on eau de wet dog. It also contains a prebiotic complex to help support the skin's friendly bacteria (here's what prebiotic actually means).
It's a grooming product rather than a fix for a badly matted coat, so for anything tight to the skin, the groomer is still your friend. For everything else, a few minutes with a brush and a spritz is the difference between a fluffy winter dog and a felted one.
